Propagating Roses from Cuttings
One of the joys of growing old roses is the fact that most of them thrive as own root plants; that is, they will grow as well-or better-from cuttings as they do when grafted onto a rootstock the way most modern roses are grown and sold. Propagating Roses from cuttings is a relatively simple matter. It is the way most old roses were handed down from one family member or friend to another, and the way many old rose collectors prefer growing then today, most of our better adapted old roses are particularly well adapted to growing on their own roots and can be successfully propagated by anyone interested in making the effort. Remember that roses still under patent (17 years from date of introduction) cannot be legally propagated without paying a royalty to the holder of the patent. Some old roses, like those in the Gallica and Rugosa classes, tend to sucker badly and may spread into areas where they are not welcome. If this is a concern, varieties that sucker may be grafted or budded onto a rootstock that does not have this characteristic, such as R. fortuniana or R. multiflora. The following suggestions for rooting rose cuttings are not likely to result in 90 to 100% rooting, but neither do they require special structures, watering systems or daily supervision. Success will vary because of the large number of variables involved, but many people report 50 to 75% of the cuttings they treat in this manner develop into usable plants. When to Take the CuttingsRoses may be rooted at any time of the year, but for home gardeners, success is much more likely during the cool months from November through February. Late fall is a favorite time because there are usually a few blossoms still remaining on ever-blooming types to identify then. How to Take CuttingsThe easiest part of the rose to root is the tips of stems that have recently bloomed. Ideally, these tips have withered flowers or hips beginning to form. The flower heads or hips should be removed down to the first set of healthy leaves. Cuttings should be 6-8" long and be cut from the parent plant with a sharp knife or pruning shears at about a 45 degree angle. It is important that the cuttings not be allowed to dry out or be exposed to extreme heat or cold, at least until they are stuck into the rooting medium. Experienced old rose collectors often carry styrofoam ice chests, plastic bags, small amount of water, and ice if they are likely to be in very hot conditions before getting the cuttings to the rooting area. Cuttings may be stored for several days in this manner, if necessary, but the sooner they are stuck, the better.
Preparing the CuttingsThe use of rooting hormones has been shown to increase the percentage of cuttings to root and the number of roots per cutting, but it is not necessary for success. Materials such as Roottone are commercially available in powder form and are popular with some rose growers. I also use a concoction called "willow water". This is derived by taking approximately one inch sections of cut branches from willows, cut both horizontally and laterally, to soak in a pan of water that has been brought to a rolling boil. (Rainwater is ideal.) Allow the willow pieces to steep in the water overnight. It should look like weak tea. Remove the willow pieces and soak the rose cuttings in the conconction for several hours. It is helpful to recut the rose cuttings about a half-inch from the ends before placing in the willow water. Willow water may be prepared in advance to facilitate the process. It may also be used for the initial watering of the newly stuck cuttings. Although it sounds a bit far out, research at the Ohio State University has shown that willows (apparently any species of Salix) contain substances that can induce rooting and prevent "damping off" or canker in other plants. This substance can be successfully removed from the willow wood by the method described and has been shown to improve the percentage of cuttings rooting in controlled experiments.
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